The Approach
It was an emotional battle trying to decide what to climb this mon-tue. So many options with such great weather sometimes I just don't know what to do. We struggled back and forth between the Adams Glacier on of course Mt. Adams or Eldorado Peak. All the recent trip reports made us lean towards Mt. Adams but in the end, the appeal of the North Cascades won us over. I know, what a contrast in route choices, but we just wanted to see that summit ridge!
Flowers on the approach. Photo: Danny Darby
We didn't get to the trail head till about 2:30 in the afternoon. Not quit what I wanted but my friend Travis had to drive up form Portland. We quickly found the log crossing and entered the approach form hell. I know there are worse in the North Cascades and many of you may see the Eldorado approach as easy, but for me and the pig on my back it was pure hell! I thought it would take maybe four hours to reach high camp but 1840 vertical feet of steep root climbing, 1000 vertical feet of boulder hopping, another 1150 vertical up through the beautiful meadows, a 3rd class downclimb for 150 feet and the final 1800 vertical up the glacier, a total of 5520 vertical and 6 hours later we finally made it to high camp.
Reaching the meadows at about 5400 feet. Photo: Travis Peterson
Travis hiking through the meadows. Photo: Danny Darby
Reaching the Roush Creek Basin. Photo: Danny Darby
Hiking towards the Eldorado Glacier> Photo: Travis Peterson
Eldorado Peak stuck in the clouds. Photo: Danny Darby
We stumbled into high camp excited to be in such a beautiful area. I broke out my new stove (the snow peak giga power, only 3 ounces, boils water great but takes forever to melt snow) and started cooking up some dinner right before night fall. The temperature dropped quickly. It was cold, real cold.
Forbidden Peak form our high camp at 7,800 feet. Photo: Danny Darby