8,860 feet
Eldorado Glacier/East Ridge, Grade II

    Time Table:
  • Car to high camp: +5520 -250 vertical, 5 h. 55 min.
  • High camp to Summit: +1060 -0 vertical, 0 h. 45 min.
  • Summit to high camp: +0 -1060 vertical, 0 h. 20 min.
  • High camp to car: +250 -5520 vertical, 3 h. 40 min.
    Gear Used:
  • 30 meter 1/2 rope
  • glacier travel gear
  • crampons & ice axe
July 17-18, 2006

The Approach

It was an emotional battle trying to decide what to climb this mon-tue. So many options with such great weather sometimes I just don't know what to do. We struggled back and forth between the Adams Glacier on of course Mt. Adams or Eldorado Peak. All the recent trip reports made us lean towards Mt. Adams but in the end, the appeal of the North Cascades won us over. I know, what a contrast in route choices, but we just wanted to see that summit ridge!

Columbia Lilly
Flowers on the approach. Photo: Danny Darby

We didn't get to the trail head till about 2:30 in the afternoon. Not quit what I wanted but my friend Travis had to drive up form Portland. We quickly found the log crossing and entered the approach form hell. I know there are worse in the North Cascades and many of you may see the Eldorado approach as easy, but for me and the pig on my back it was pure hell! I thought it would take maybe four hours to reach high camp but 1840 vertical feet of steep root climbing, 1000 vertical feet of boulder hopping, another 1150 vertical up through the beautiful meadows, a 3rd class downclimb for 150 feet and the final 1800 vertical up the glacier, a total of 5520 vertical and 6 hours later we finally made it to high camp.

Eldorado Meadows
Reaching the meadows at about 5400 feet. Photo: Travis Peterson
Eldorado Meadows
Travis hiking through the meadows. Photo: Danny Darby
Roush Creek Basin
Reaching the Roush Creek Basin. Photo: Danny Darby
Roush Creek Basin
Hiking towards the Eldorado Glacier> Photo: Travis Peterson
Eldorado Peak
Eldorado Peak stuck in the clouds. Photo: Danny Darby

We stumbled into high camp excited to be in such a beautiful area. I broke out my new stove (the snow peak giga power, only 3 ounces, boils water great but takes forever to melt snow) and started cooking up some dinner right before night fall. The temperature dropped quickly. It was cold, real cold.

Forbidden Peak
Forbidden Peak form our high camp at 7,800 feet. Photo: Danny Darby

The Climb

Eldorado Glacier
Climbing the Eldorado Glacier. Photo: Travis Peterson

Eldorado Glacier
Making an otherwise easy climb more interseting. Photo: Travis Peterson

The cold night gave great cramponing snow up the remainder 1200 vertical we had to climb to reach the summit. It turns out that most of this route can be climbed on the rocky ridge if one wants, we brought the glacier travel gear so we stayed on the glacier and enjoyed a short weave through the crevasses. 45 min. after leaving camp we were traversing that amazing summit ridge.

Eldorado Peak
Reaching the summit ridge. Photo: Travis Peterson
Eldorado Peak
The sharp ridge line. Photo: Travis Peterson
Eldorado Peak
Travis and I on the summit.
Eldorado Peak
Travis on the summit ridge. Photo: Danny Darby
Eldorado Peak
The sharp ridge line. Photo: Travis Peterson

We enjoyed the sun and the views for about a half hour and made it back to camp in 25 min. We broke down camp and prepared for the knee breaker descent back to the car.

cascades
Travis on the descent. Photo: Danny Darby

We saw a bear cub climbing a cliff along the talus field which was kind of wierd. Never seen a bear climb rock like that before, who knew! After finally reaching the car we realized that My car keys were missing. We were stuck up the cascade river road with no phone reception. Eventually a nice couple from Michigan were on their way out after a day hike up to Cascade Pass. They drove us to Marblemount and even gave us $20 bucks for phone calls. We spent the next few hours trying to find a way to get into my car. All the locksmiths were closed, some guy wanted to tow my car $500, I graciously declined his offer. Eventually we got hold of a good friend in Seattle who was bored so she called my wife to pick up my spare keys and picked us up in marblemount and then drove us to our car. Thank god for bored people!!! We finally made it back to Seattle at about 3 in the morning.Thank You Solina!


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