Great Northern Slabs Grade II; 5.8***

60 meter rope
gear to 3 1/2 inches
slings

Aug. 27 2006

The Climb

With limited time and a new climbing partner we didn't really accomplish much here. But that's ok cause the climbing is great. I've done this route before with Reka but I wanted to climb the splitter crack on the right this time. The route is usually rated 5.6 but I guess if you add the short off width crack to get to the main ledge you can call it a 5.8 outing. So, with that in mind, I will call the 5.8 pitch the access pitch and pitch 1 will start on the main ledge system.

Rich climbing the 5.8 access pitch.

Access Pitch, 5.8

I led this strenuous but short pitch. you can definitely break out the larger cams for this one. All though you only really need one #3.5 and a small alien for right before you get into the off width. You need some big fist to fit in this crack though as there are no features on the slab.

Pitch 1, 5.2

After you get up to the main ledge system (and the starting of most of the moderates at index) walk over to the base of an easy ramp the heads toward the huge railroad bolts. We made an anchor with a couple stoppers at the base of the ramp and Rich led up this easy pitch only placing a couple more pieces. It is very easy and could be good for someone to practice placing gear. Belay off of the railroad bolts.

Pitch 2, 5.6

This is the pitch that makes the route so good! The crux is getting over the roof with a tricky move on the left. Once I got passed the roof I traversed right on the ledge to the awesome splitter crack of the upper Libra.(long slings useful here). This crack is about 5.6 and great fun to climb. Straight in hand and finger locks the whole way up. After about 40 feet of great crack climbing you reach a 3 bolt belay. I set up an anchor and belayed Rich up.

Rich following the 5.6 splitter crack of pitch 2.

Higher on the splitter.

Pitch 3, 5.2