Little Tahoma

11,138 feet
Frying Pan Glacier, Grade II (ATTEMPT)

    Time Table:
  • Car to high camp: +2198 -70 vertical, 3 h. 19 min.
  • High camp to high point: +2900 -0 vertical, 3 h. 44 min.
  • High point to high camp: +0 -2900 vertical, 1 h. 20 min.
  • High camp to car: +70 -2198 vertical, 2 h. 40 min.
    Gear Used:
  • 30 meter 1/2 rope
  • glacier travel gear
  • crampons & ice axe
June 19-20, 2006

The Approach

Travis, Saundra, Michele, Jason and I all headed towards Mount Rainier for a backpacking trip. Travis and I hoped to climb Little Tahoma while the rest of the team hiked around Summerland. It's about a 3+ hour drive to reach Mount Rainier from Seattle and we had a much later start than hoped (breakfast at Pesos with friends). We made it to the park quit late, stopped at the White River ranger station to get climbing permits and eventually made it to the trail head at 3800 feet.

We drove up here in two cars because Jason was only doing a day hike to summerland, the rest of us were planning on spending the night up there. After spending way to much time packing we eventually hit the trail with heavy packs. The first 2 miles of this trail gains little elevation as it meanders it's way through the thick forest. The occasional view of the creek provided great break points.

Summerland
On the approach to Summerland. Photo: Danny Darby

At about 5,000 feet the trail became more and more snow covered. For some reason I was not expecting snow until above summerland, I should have known better considering I lived at Paradise for 4 years. I guess it has been awhile since I have really visited this beautiful part of the park.

Fryingpan Creek
Crossing the Fryingpan Creek. Photo: Danny Darby

Before we started the short and steep bit up to summerland Jason decided that he needed to get back to Seattle. Michele decided to turn around as well so we said our goodbyes and we headed up and they headed down. We now had a bunch of extra food which was great for the human garbage disposal (AKA Travis).

Fryingpan Creek
Reaching the snow at about 5,000 feet. Photo: Danny Darby
Summerland
Saundra reaching the Summerland camp. Photo: Danny Darby

The final push up to our camp drained our energy so we broke out the food and started eating. The sun was slowly setting behind Mount Rainier and the temperature was dropping fast. We could tell it was going to be a chilly night.

Summerland
Mt. Rainier and Little Tahoma from Summerland. Photo: Travis Peterson

The Climb

In the morning Travis and I headed up towards Meany Crest and Saundra headed towards Indian Bar. The way up to Meany Crest was more difficult than I remember from previous trips. The snow was really hard from the cold night so we had to strap on the crampons and front point up much of it. We were starting to feel comfortable with the front pointing when I hear Travis cussing behind me. I turn around just in time to see his ice axe sliding down the steepest part of the slope and towards the moat. We both watched knowing that our trip was over. All of a sudden, the axe stops about 10 feet above the cliff!

After careful down climbing we retrieve the axe and continue up the mountain.

Little Tahoma
Travis and I ready for the climb. Maybe. Photo: Saundra Brocket

Meany Crest
Climbing to Meany Crest at 7,573 feet. Photo: Travis Peterson

Little Tahoma
Travis wondering why it doesn't seem to get any closer. Photo: Danny Darby
Little Tahoma
Breaking out the glacier gear on the Fryingpan Glacier. Photo: Travis Peterson

The sun soon warmed the mountain and we were discovering a problem. Every other step that we would take we would sink into the melting snow about a foot. This was draining our energy really fast but we continued on.

Little Tahoma
Knee deep in the mush. Photo: Travis Peterson
Little Tahoma
Travis on the Fryingpan Glacier.
Little Tahoma
Travis on the descent. Photo: Danny Darby

By the time we reached about 9,000 feet the sun was so hot that it was dislodging rocks down the faces of Little Tahoma. This made us make the difficult decision to turn around and head back to camp.

Little Tahoma
Back down near Meany Crest. Photo: Travis Peterson
Little Tahoma
Traversing steep slopes near Summerland. Photo: Travis Peterson
Little Tahoma
Mount Rainier and Little Tahoma. Photo: Travis Peterson
Little Tahoma
Saundra near the Fryingpan Creek. Photo: Danny Darby