Royal Columns, 5.3-5.6

    Gear Used:
  • 60 meter rope
  • gear to 3 inches
  • slings
May 28, 2006

The Drive

Jodie, Scott and I all decided to get away from school and work for a couple of day's and head to the desert. We decided on Tieton River so I could practice trad climbing more and try to get rid of this weird fear that has been haunting me every time I get 5 feet above a piece. Scott is a newby so we figured we could set up some easy top ropes for him.

It is a long drive to get to Tieton River. When I was living at Mt. Rainier this was the closet rock climbing area for us to go to (besides our secret crags at Rainier which are not worth your time). When it was foggy or raining on the mountain we would always head towards the sun at Tieton River. Now that I am living in Seattle it easily takes over 3 hours to get here. I think the quickest way is over Snoqualmie Pass on I-90, take the I-82 exit to Yakima. When you enter Yakima look for HWY-12 to White Pass.

Royal Columns is the first crag you'll get to and is very worth while. Many climbers place there first cam here as a lot of the climbs are very moderate. Another great area is The Bend, these are harder routes but does have a couple of moderate. Ed's Jam is a great 5.7 crack and Cherry Bomb is a really fun 5.10a bear hug arrete. On this trip The Bend was closed due to falcon nesting. We were pretty lucky to find cold weather to keep the damn snakes under the rocks. I have heard way to many rattles at this place. One of the reasons I don't come here to often. What a crappy way of ruining a good day of climbing with a mad dash to the hospital to get venom sucked out of you.

Royal Columns

Twin Cracks 5.6 **

It has been a few years since I have been to Tieton River so was wasn't quite sure where to start. We walked around at the base of the columns trying to recognize the routes and find something that did not all ready have people on it. We eventually came across fat crack, it had a couple of stars in the book so we thought we would go for it. I was quickly reminded how much I despise off widths, even if they are 5.6. I thrashed and forced my way up the crack fitting half of my body in it for purchase. I wouldn't recommend this as one of the first climbs of the year as it was pretty strenuous for me. Well, I eventually made to the top and belayed Jodie up. We decided that this was not the best first climb for Scott since he has never touched rock before so we moved over and set up a top rope on whatever the name is.


Danny climbing Twin Cracks.

Jodie following.

Double Trouble 5.5 **

This is what I loved about Tieton River. The cracks are so damn good! Perfect jams all the way up this one and if you felt like it you could reach your hand deep in the crack and pull an awesome lieback. Great gear and great climbing the whole way up. Near the top it gets quite a bit steeper and you have to think a little bit harder about your moves which adds all that much more to this route. A must do!


Scott on his first climb ever.

Western Front 5.3 ***

Next we moved over to Western Front which is considered by some as the best 5.3 in Washington State. It's a good route and even better for newbies but how good can a 5.3 really be? Well, I think it deserves every star it gets. This was the first trad climb I ever lead and I remember being completely terrified the whole time. Now I can easily climb it but I still get that same great feeling with every move. I lead the route and set up a top rope for Jodie and Scott. Jodie climbed with the rack so she could practice placing gear and Scott made it to the top of this one. I bet many climbers have great memories of this route as being one of there first.

Day 2
Almost to the top Scott!


Jodie top roping with the rack.

Rough Boys 5.5**

This was another great hand crack that can end at the top of Western Front. Really fun climbing.

We were all pretty tired and ready for some food. We headed back to the campground and grilled up some brats on the campfire excited for tomorrow.