Frenchman Coulee, 5.5-5.10a
- Gear Used:
- 60 meter rope
- quickdraws
- lots of chalk
November 17-18, 2007
The Drive
It was dumping rain over Snoqualmie Pass! I tried to talk myself into believing that it would be dry on the east side of the cascades. I have been to the coulee in all seasons and found t-shirt weather. It was still raining in Ellensburg! Argh! Maybe we wont be climbing today. We continued on through Vantage and pulled into the feathers parking area to dark, gray clouds but no rain! You could tell that a storm recently came through as the routes were littered with ropes that climbers left as they ran for their camp to get out of the rain. The rock was soaking wet but we drove for 3 hours so were going to climb something.
The Feathers
After searching around for some dry rock we finally settled on Satan's Little Helper. It stayed pretty dry because it is so steep. Probably not a great climb to start with as it tends to be really pumpy.
Satan's Little Helper 5.9**
My hands were freezing by about half way up which made the climbing a bit harder than usual. I had to try and avoid the wet spots which was pretty much impossible but I managed to get up the route. Very enjoyable route with 5 bolts to chain anchor.
Lacey climbing Satan's Little Helper.
Altar of Sacrifice 5.7*
We moved onto the main wall and decided to give this a try as it is one of the few routes at the feathers that I have not climbed. It had an OK crux but for the most part the climbing was not that interesting. What the hell, it's climbing, I can't complain about that.
Lacey climbing into the bit of blue sky that we will see this weekend.
Shake It Don't Break It 5.5**
We moved onto this easy route even though it was soaking wet. It's easy climbing past 3 bolts to the chains.
Medicine Man 5.10a**
The south side of the feathers was actually pretty dry so we moved over and gave Medicine Man a try. This was my first 10a lead climb I ever did back in the day! It's fun climbing until you reach the last bolt and it becomes lose and insecure. Steep climbing with great positive holds; 4 bolts to the anchor.
We all stayed at Kathryn's apartment in Ellen. The forecast called for better weather so we thought it would be sunny and warm. We woke up to snow falling. I didn't know if I should be excited or disappointed! I have been waiting for the ski resorts to open but I also wanted to get in some good climbing. We packed up and headed to the coulee to check out the conditions.
We get there to drier conditions than yesterday but a bit colder.
Get The Pever Fever 5.5**
This route is a fun moderate route that is great for beginners. It was a good route for Kathryn to experience her first climb on. 3 bolts to a chain anchor.
Kathryn on her first climb.
Where the Sidewalk Ends 5.1**
Another good climb for the girls to practice on. Good hand holds with a couple steep steps to negotiate. 3 bolts to the chain anchors.
Kathryn climbing Where the Sidewalk Ends.
Desert Shield 5.9***
Desert Shield is a great climb! It started to rain while I was climbing it and the rock became really slippery so I had to hang and rest for a minute. 6 bolts up the arete to anchors.
Me climbing the cool arete of Desert Shield.