Neverland, 5.9-510a

    Gear Used:
  • 60 meter rope
  • quickdraws
  • hand warmers
February 1, 2007

The Drive

Exit 38 is a quick drive up I-90 from Seattle. Only about 45 min from the lower queen anne neighborhood makes this a great location if you are short on time. Which, I seem to always be.

After passing North Bend on I-90 follow Exit 38. Take a right at the stop sign. The first parking lot on the right takes you to Amazonia, the 2nd parking lot is on the left hand side of the road right before a little creek. Take the trail on the other side of the road to reach Deception Crags. If you continue up the road a little further you will drive under the highway. On the other side of the highway is the parking lot for The Far Side. Hike the road and cross the river and follow the trail immediately after the far end of the bridge. Follow the trail that passes several underground cable signs to the climbing areas. To reach the Neverland Wall you continue up the road until you see a utility building on the left hand side of the road. Take a trail on the right hand side of the road and follow it into the woods for about 15 min.

Neverland

I picked Michael up at about 9am. Perfect time to run into the famous Seattle traffic. We thought that it might be better to take 520 East to Belvue and then follow 405 to I-90. Our conversation turned to Chamonix, France and the next thing I new we were almost to Renton! So, we had to turn around and find our way back to I-90. We eventually made it to Exit 38 and continued up the road and parked next to the utility shed.

We have had a high pressure pattern in Washington lately and it was about 30 degrees when we made it to the trail head. We hiked the 15 minutes to the first crag "Lost Boys" and were surprised to see solid ice flowing down the crag.

Neverland is a group of 4 different rock outcroppings. The first one that you come to while hiking up the trail is "Lost Boys". As far as I know, none of the routes have names yet. Maybe the names are on the 2nd edition of the guide book which I don't have. If you know the names, feel free to add them to the comments at the bottom of this page.

Name Unknown 5.9, 2 pitches.

Pitch 1, 5.9

We started out with the 2 pitch 5.9 on the left side of the rock. I led off clipping bolts up the blocky face. The first pitch was still in the shade and my fingers quickly went numb. After about 20 meters of solid climbing you reach a 2 bolt belay station. I set up an anchor and belayed Michael up.

Exit 38
Michael climbing the first pitch.

Pitch 2, 5.9

Michael led off on the 2nd pitch which starts out climbing the corner of the face and pulling a small roof onto a slab. The slab continues to a large tree and another 2 bolt anchor. We were in the sun from the belay on up and the sun was feeling great!

Exit 38
Michael leading the 2nd pitch.

Name Unknown 5.10c

From the top of the previous route you can climb a 3rd pitch up the steep face above. Michael led this with ease as I struggled and couldn't make it past the 2nd bolt. The climb looks really fun and hopefully I will be able to get up it soon. The climb follows a large fracture the climbs diagonally up the steep face.

Exit 38
Michael leading the steep 5.10c

You can do a single 60 meter rope rappel from the anchors by the large tree on top of pitch 2.

Name Unknown 5.10a, 3 pitches.

Pitch 1, 5.9

The first pitch start up the bolted gully on the far right side of the wall. I led this pitch passing dripping water and the occasional patch of ice. It's a pretty easy pitch but it was difficult to keep my feet dry.

exit 38
Michael climbing the slippery 1st pitch.

Pitch 2, 5.10a

Michael led this pitch starting with a traverse from the belay to a slabby corner. From here we were in the sun again so we didn't have to worry to much about slippery holds. Getting into the corner is kind of tricky and awkward but once you can reach the flake about 5 feet to the left you are home free. Continue climbing up past a few more bolts until you reach a 2 bolt belay.

Pitch 3, 5.7

I led up this easy pitch past good holds and cracks.

We rappelled down to the large tree from the first route we climbed and then rappelled from there to the ground. This was a very fun route

Hook

We hiked further down the trail which skirts past 3 more crags. The very last one is called Hook and contains (from left to right) a 5.10a, 5.10b and a 5.10c.

Name Unknown 5.10b

Michael led off on this route clipping about 7 bolts to an anchor. Michael led it perfectly and then it was my turn. I completely destroyed myself attempting it. The climb is very steep with a roof to surmount about half way up. I flailed so much on the roof it was ridiculous. Well, after Michael basically pulled me up the route, I lowered to the ground and promised myself that I would be back later this year to lead it. We'll see.

Michael then climbed the 5.10c on the right and said it was easier than the 10b. I didn't even want to bother with it. Well, it was a great day at a close by crag in February. Will Washington stay dry long enough to keep rock climbing this winter? Probably not, but it was fun while it lasted.
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