• trip reports
• dream routes
• about me
• climbing partners
• blog
• web cams
• links

Deception Crags

The Approach

Dylan and I were hoping to climb in the Tatoosh range in Mt. Rainier National Park but he ended up getting called into to work for the evening. We figured we should still get out and try and climb before he had to run to work. I picked him up at his place around 8:30 with dark and grey clouds in the sky. We both kept telling each other that it would clear up when we get around North Bend. 45 minutes later, while getting gas, we realize that there are puddles in the road. This isn't looking good. We keep driving and take Exit 38 and follow the road to the pull-out. The area looked really wet and for a minute we considered getting back in the car and heading home. We finally decide that maybe we should hike up to the rock and check it out, who knows, maybe it will be climbable.

A quick 10 minute hike through the mud and slippery roots we make it up to the truffle. The rock is obviously soaking wet but we continue further to check out the We Did Rock area. After wandering around a bit and feeling the slippery rock we finally find something that looks somewhat dry.
"Should we" I ask.
"That's what we came here for" Dyaln replies.
He's right, why should a little rain deter us from climbing?

The Climbs

We Did Rock

We Did Rock is a pretty fun area and very popular. Most the climbs are in the 5.9-5.10a range and are usually crowded with people eager to climb there first 5.9. We had no lines for the rock today, just slippery feet and cold finger!.

We found the right section of We Did Rock somewhat dry, actually, we found one route to be somewhat dry. So that's what we started with. Don't forget to add "We Did" to the front of all the route names! :)

Easy Street, 5.6

We figured that even if the rock is crazy slippery were on a 5.6, it can't be that bad. I racked up, if you consider grabbing 3 quickdraws and a sling for an anchor racking up, and prepared myself for a slime fest of northwest rock. Easy Street ended up being pretty blocky with a lot of big ledges and big holds so the climbing was pretty secure. The wet rock may have made it a little bit trickier but it wasn't that bad. After clipping 3 bolts I was back on the ground and very happy that we decided to stay. 3 bolts to the top.

Dylan top-roped it and felt he wanted to try and lead it and did a good job doing so.

Your Sister, 5.7

Next I jumped on Your Sister, yup, that's right. Your Sister is on the left of Easy Street and just a tad harder. I figured it couldn't be that wet and started climbing. After clipping the second bolt it was obvious I made a mistake. The route was soaked and the rock was like slime! I had to frantically wipe my hands on my shirt and pants to try and dry them out. I carefully climbed up the wet rock and clipped the anchor. Wow! The hardest 5.7 I have ever climbed! I told Dylan it wasn't even worth it so he declined and we moved on. 3 bolts to the top.

My Ex-Wife, 5.10a

My Ex-Wife is really fun but not that easy. ;) I felt I lead it pretty good and was basically calling it finished when my right foot slipped right out from under me! I took a small fall right before the anchors. What a shame. This route has cool moves and great crimpers followed by a nice outside corner and big jugs to the top. Great climb! 4 bolts to the top.

The Joke, 5.10c (top-rope)

SInce we had the rope up I figured I would try and top rope the 10c. The beginning of the route is the crux for me as you have very delicate and steep holds. This was a great route and am looking forward to coming back when it is dry to try and lead it. I have led it before but I wasn't a fat bumb back then.

We hiked back to the car to get Dylan home in time for work. What I thought wouldn't be a good day of climbing actually ended up being really fun and I am glad we stuck with it. It is so easy to wake up in the morning in Seattle and decide to stay home cause of the rain. I guess you just have to learn to climb through it!

---