8,815 feet
East Ridge Direct, Grade II, 5.8
- Gear Used:
- 60 meter 1/2 rope
- small rack to 2 inches
- crampons & ice axe
July 30, 2007
8,815 feet
The Approach
Prepare for an image overload!
Eric contacted me through alpinerack.com. Wow! People actually visit my web site! We quickly made plans to climb together. Originally I was going to climb Sahale Peak with Dylan but when Eric mentioned the East Ridge of Forbidden Peak I couldn't resist. I have wanted to climb Forbidden forever, sorry about bailing on you Dylan.
Eric could only get one day off of work so we decided to climb the peak car to car in a day. We drove to Cascade Pass late sunday night hoping the road would be open. This last winter really beat the shit out of Washington back roads! Unfortunately, the road was still closed at the Eldorado Peak trail head at about 2,160 feet. This adds an extra 2.75 miles of road walking to the approach. We set our alarms for 3 am secretly wishing neither of them would work.
3 o'clock came way to soon. I didn't feel like I slept at all. My alarm never even went off and I don't ever remember hearing Eric's alarm but somehow he was up at about 3:20 so I quickly jumped up feeling a bit embarrassed about sleeping in. We packed up and had some Odwalla for breakfast and hit the road by about 3:40 am.
The forecast called for excellent weather but all we could see were clouds. Hiking the road was a bit demoralizing, usually you would see J-Berg to your right but it was hidden by mist. We made it to the trail head in about 45 min. and started up the old mining road and into the classic cascade trail from hell. Although it did seem easier in the dark.
We broke into Bostin Basin at about 5:30 am and to no surprise we were in a thick white out. We couldn't see more than 200 feet ahead. We trudged on up through the meadows hoping that we would get a break in the fog. Every once in awhile we would look back at J-Berg and see it's rocky summit and hanging glaciers bathing in golden sunlight through a hole in the clouds. This gave us reassurance that the fog would burn off.
Reaching Boston Basin in a sea of white.
We hiked up to the beautiful upper basin camps at 6,400 feet. This is where we ran into problems, we had no idea where the peak was. Everything was white and we couldn't make out any of the features that we were looking for. After wasting time and getting frustrated with the topo we eventually just started hiking straight up from the camp. We came to a gully that didn't look to hard so we started up into the foggy abyss.
Initially, the gully was pretty easy 3rd class rock. We ran into a steep step that I felt was at 5th class. It probably wasn't but it freaked me out not being roped up in unknown terrain with wet and somewhat difficult rock. After pulling through the sketchy moves we continued to scramble up until it topped out. Everything made since now, we were way to far to the East of where we should have been. The gully that we climbed lead to about half way up and landed us right into the middle of the true gully (lucky us). We were now out of the fog and Forbidden Peak was right in front of us. We put on our crampons and started up the gully. It should of been perfect cramponing in great hard pack snow but I had strap on crampons on my 5.10 approach shoes. It was a little sketchy but it was much better than the gully that we just went up.
Eric climbing the moraine that we thought lead to the gully that leads to the ridge.
Climbing the correct gully to the ridge.
Eric passing a chock stone in the gully.
We passed a couple of rock constrictions followed by a cool snow arrete with lots of exposure. When the snow ended we took off the poons and hiked up a loose scree slope to the gendarme that marked the beginning of the climbing. It took us about 6 hours to climb 6,000 vertical. If weather would of cooperated we could of shaved at least an hour off of our time.
Reaching the ridge proper at about 8,000'
The Climb
We racked up and flaked out the rope to prepare for the climb. We decided to try and do as much simul-climbing as possible to get to the top as fast as possible. We stuffed one pack with water, shells, gu, and other necessities for the climb that the follower would wear. We folded the rope in half with 30 meters between us and started climbing.
Eric starting the first pitch.
This long pitch was amazing! Eric lead through a cool 5.7 tower followed by an amazingly exposed knife edge ridge. The exposure below us was mind boggling. Most of the climbing was moderate 5.0- 5.4 with huge exposure.
Making the 5.7 moves on the first gendarme.
On the knife edge.
Ending the knife edge ridge.
I took over after the knife ridge up another gendarme. We simul climbed up and over it to the next gendarme. According to the topo you can get over the gendarme with 5.7 moves on the left of the crest. I somehow missed that and had loose boring rock for the most of it.
Eric climbing over one of the many gendarme.
Eric took over for the next lead which climbs a great 5.7 gendarme to the top where you then have to rappel down the other side. The climbing was really fun with an obvious crux of lie backing the ridge until you can throw your feet over and climb on top of it. We then rapped down the other side and were now sitting at the base of the 5.8 crux.
Looking down the North Ridge.
Eric lead this pitch as well as he is the better climber. It was pretty short, not even being 30 meters but had some really fun and steep moves. The key to the crux is to stem with your feet. There was a stopper at the crux so Eric clipped it and continued to the top of the gendarme.
Eric climbing the crux.
From the top of the crux gendarme I lead off to the summit. This pitch had a couple 5.2 moves with the rest being a bit easier. Really fun climbing on great rock.
Eric climbing the 5.2 ridge.
Almost to the summit.
Eric's summit shot.
It took us around 2 hours to climb the ridge. We were doing decent time, we just have to make it off the ridge before dark. We were descending the East Ledges which we both have heard horror stories about. Dropping onto a steep face that you have never been on can be a mind numbing experience. We set our first rap off of a horn near the summit, we backed it up with an extra sling as the ones already their looked pretty weathered.
The first rap is a little shy of 30 meters. To find the next anchor you have to move to the left (while rapping). The second rap is really short, maybe only 20 meters but you can see the 3rd anchors directly below you. The 3rd rappel is a full 30 meter rappel. Make sure you tie knots at the end of the rope. You can't really see the anchors until you are right on top of them. The 4th rappel is another 30 meters and to your left. The last rappel is off of an old rusty piton and a stopper. Yea, a bit sketchy! Just rap straight down until the rope runs out and then walk left towards a red sling around a rock. I guess you can rappel from here as well but we just down climbed and started the traverse. We roped up and did a long simul-climb along the face. Mostly easy 3rd class with bits of 4th thrown in to keep you on your toes. Stay low on the traverse, we did a lot of down climbing to keep us on easier ground. You eventually reach an obvious gully which leads up to your packs. When you get near the top of the gully there is a fork, do not take it just keep going straight up. Our descent took us about 2 hours.
Dropping into the unknown.
On the way down from the ridge we had to down climb a lot of steep snow. We both had strap on crampons and approach shoes. This became quite scary for me. The spikes on my crampons are barely an inch long and have no purchase in wet snow. It took us long than it should have to get down but we still made it to the car before dark.
Hiking through the meadows of Boston Basin.
Last view of the basin.
From car to car we made it in about 16 hours. Defiantly nothing to brag about but considering the issues that we ran into I think we made good time. If the road was open, it wasn't foggy in the morning and my crampons didn't suck ass we could of shaved about 3 hours off. Maybe.
This is probably the best climb that I have ever done. I completely loved every aspect of it and had a great partner. I hope to climb again with him soon.