Great Northern Slab, 5.6

    Gear Used:
  • 60 meter rope
  • gear to 3 inches
  • slings
July 2, 2007

The Drive

The lower slabs of Index probably have the easiest approach of any climbing area in Washington. It's a quick 45 minute drive from Seattle on HWY 2. Once you are in the parking lot it's not even a 5 minute walk to the wall.

Great Northern Slab, 3 pitches.

Pitch 1, 5.6

We started the climb by scrambling up to the first large ledge that's about 15 feet high. There is a ramp on the left of the ledge with a tricky move right at the start followed by easy scrambling. Most people solo this spot although we have always belayed it.

After we were both on the comfortable ledge the real fun starts. You continue up the ramp that is on the left side of the ledge aiming for a pair of old railroad bolts. The climbing is easy following cracks and flakes. Most belay at the railroad bolts but we continued up over the crux with a short traverse to the right and below a perfect splitter hand crack (upper crack of Libra). I set a belay here and brought Reka up.

Index
Reka climbing the first pitch.
Index
Reka following the easy flakes up the ramp.
Index
Reka climbing the crux and traverse to the first belay.

Pitch 2, 5.6

This pitch is what this climb is all about. A perfect hand crack climbing for about 60 feet. The only problem with this crack is it is too short. While climbing it I would find myself wishing that everyday could be like this, perfect girl, perfect crack, perfect weather and a perfect day. Then the crack ends and reality hits you like a fucking brick as you rappel back to the nothingness that awaits you on the ground. Why do I climb? What a stupid question.

Anyway's, this crack is awesome! At the top of the crack there is a 3 bolt anchor. You could continue to the top of the climb if you wanted but I wanted to get some shots of Reka as she climbed the crack so I set up a belay at the anchors. Reka was having issues with her ankles hurting and couldn't make it up the crack so I lowered her and we rappelled to the ground. We finished the day with a drive to Lake Wenatchee for a swim and some brawts in Leavenworth.

Index
Reka climbing the great upper crack of Libra.
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