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Bruce's Boulder/Barney's Rubble

The Approach

A bunch of us planned an end of summer camping trip and of course we worked so we would have easy access to climbing. There was about 10 of us all together and 4 of us who wanted to climb. We made camp at the eight mile campground for 3 nights of angry camp hosts.

I'm not sure what the route names are since it does not mention them in the guide book so I just have the ratings. We started off at the Bruce's Boulder and Barney's Rubble area. Neither Sherri or Lacey have really climbed before so we thought it would be a good place to start.

The Climbs

Bruce's Boulder

5.0

We started off with an easy little corner system on the river side of the rock. I lead up and set a top-rope for everyone else.

5.8

Straight up on the left of the corner was a steep and short crack that was not in the book. It looked fun so I lead up nervously as pro was limited and if I fell I would defiantly hit the ground. It was probably in the 5.7 maybe 5.8 range. Had some lichen on the rock so it didn't feel as secure as the typical Leavenworth crack.

5.10

We then top-roped a nice fist size crack to the right of the corner. It starts out on a really steep slab with crimpers. It not only ripped my fingers to shreds but it also ruined my shoes! Really technical slab climbing followed by a great crack to the top. Really fun route.

Barney's Rubble

We moved across the street climb some more cracks.

5.6

This is a great lie back crack that basically goes up the center of the face. Really fun climbing and a great lead. I set up a top-rope for everyone else so they could do laps on it.

5.8

After everyone was done with the 5.6 I climbed this great crack on the left. Pretty strenuous at the beginning but eases near the top. Really fun!

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February Buttress

Ground Hog Day/1st pitch variation, 5.7

The next day Lacey and I thought we would try a multiple pitch route. I have always looked up at February Buttress and thought that it would be fun climbing. Icicle Creek Canyon was cold and windy and I knew that the sun would be shinning on this route. After hiking to the base of the route I noticed a set of bolts about 10 feet below the true start of Ground Hog Day. I figured why not, racked up and started climbing.

For the most part the climbing was easy and on great rock. The climb probably has about 6 bolts and link up to the cracks to place gear. We ended up only climbing the 1st pitch since this was Lacey's first time this high on rock. I threw the rope and we made a 30 meter rap down to the ground.

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