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8,000 feet
West Ridge, Grade II, 5.7

The Approach

Prepare for an image overload!

There is no easy way to get to Prusik Peak. Regardless of the direction that you take it is at least a 10 mile hike. We decided that we might as well take our time and enjoy the enchantments while we were up there so we did a 3 day loop trip. We started from the Stuart Lake trail head and hiked up to Colchuck lake and over Asgard Pass to the upper enchantments the first day. The second day we made our way down toward Prusik Peak. We set up a nice camp at Sprite Lake with hopes of easy access to Prusik peak.

The approach from Sprite Lake ended up being very easy and quick. We hiked back to Perfection Lake and made it to the Prusik Pass trail in about 10 min. The trail to the pass is easy as it wanders through the meadows as you gain altitude and all the lakes of the enchantments fall below you. We made it to Prusik Pass in about 30 min. and started the scramble to the base of the peak. We were not sure if the descent route takes you right to the base of the climb or if it takes you to Prusik Pass so we left our packs at an in between point and scrambled over rocks to the first pitch. It took us under an hour to hike to the base of the West Ridge. Looking up the first couple pitches of the route we all got excited for the climb and quickly racked up to go.

The Climb

Pitch 1

According to the route description, the first two pitches climb easy 5th class rock to the ridge proper. I guess we quickly went off route. I climbed about 30 meters up easy rock when some great looking cracks on the right hand side came into view. I guess I was more attracted to the cracks than the blocky rock on the left so I decided to go towards the cracks. I quickly realized that it was not low 5th but I had a blast jamming in that awesome granite. After climbing the cool corner cracks I ended up at the base of a slab. I set up an anchor to belay Travis and Adam up and pulled out my route description hoping I could figure out where I went.

Pitch 2

I belayed Travis and Adam up so we could discuss our lack of route finding abilities. Right in front of us we had a slab with a cool arching crack that leads to a steep step that looked pretty difficult. I decided to traverse the slab and peak around the corner. The slab was only about 10 feet wide with a small ledge and crack for your feet but nothing for your hands. After reaching the corner I set a small stopper by my feet and peered around the corner.

I could see where we were supposed to be so decided to try and get around the corner and hopefully to easier ground. I had to do a short but scary step down to get passed the corner, I placed a good cam to protect the moves for Travis and Adam. After the step down moves I climbed into a short double crack system but the cracks were to shallow for gear or jams. With some technical stemming and a long reach to a huge flake I made it to easier ground.

I climbed past ledges and onto a short slab with cracks that lead right below the crux pitch. I belayed Travis and Adam up and prepared for the mental trauma of run out slab climbing.

Pitch 3

I set a stopper and clipped the old rusty piton at the base of the slab. I looked up and wondered where all the holds were. After a couple seconds of contemplating what to do I decided that I just have to go for it. I quickly realized that the rough granite is perfect for smearing and the climbing was pretty easy. After the slab I traversed on the right hand side of a tower that had intense exposure down the south face of the peak. The rope drag was getting pretty bad so I slung some rock and belayed Adam and Travis up the slab and around the corner.

Pitch 4

This was hardly even worth describing as a pitch. Basically I just followed some ledges with 3rd class steps to the base of a steeper wall. I guess I should of climbed up a bit higher and set the belay at the base of the corner system but I stopped short and brought Adam and Travis up.

Pitch 5

This pitch was spectacular! Defiantly the best bit of climbing on the whole route. Since our belay was a little lower than recommended by the guide book I still had some really easy steps to climb up until I reached the dark corner. I couldn't really see the corner from where we were so I just started climbing until things started to sound familiar. After about 15 feet I climbed onto a large ledge and at the far right side of the ledge was an awesome corner system. The book rates it 5.6 but it seemed like the hardest part of the climb to me. Much more technical than the slab was. The corner has been in the shade all day so that probably added to the difficulty as we were already freezing and by the time I made it half way up my fingers were numb. I used a bit of lie backing and stemming to get up and once you are high enough you can reach to the right and grab the arrete

After the corner you reach another ledge. I climbed right up to the ridge crest and grabbed the flake (with a shiny new bolt, why?) and enjoyed the immense drop down to the scree below the south face. When I made it to the base of the chimney I couldn't figure out which one I was supposed to climb. I tried the second one first and quickly realized that it was not the right one. I moved over to the first one and found great little ledges for my feet and kept my right hand out on the arrete This technique worked great as I didn't really have to get to deep in the chimney.

We enjoyed a few minutes on the summit taking pictures and admiring the enchantments. This place is simply amazing! Lakes extend as far as you can see. We didn't spend much time on the summit cause we only had about 4 more hours until dark.

I racked up all the gear and flaked the rope to throw down the north face. We had 2 60 meter ropes which worked out well as we only needed to do 2 rappels. I would defiantly recommend this over 4-5 single rope rappels. After the second rappel we down climbed about 50 feet before we started the traverse back to prusik pass.

On the hike back to camp we went passed Gnome Tarn which was just beautiful! I will defiantly make that our camp next year.

We made it back to camp in about 3o minutes from Prusik Pass. We brewed up some hot water so warm up from spending all afternoon in the cold wind. It was great to get warm fluids in my frozen system!

Prusik Peak is a must do climb! The granite is some of the best in the north cascades and the peak is awesome looking from below. Hopefully next year I will climb the south face as it looked amazing. Thanks to Travis and Adam for the great climb!

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