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Solar Slab Gully Grade II; 5.3 ***
Solar Slab Grade IV; 5.6 *****

The Approach

The alarm woke us up at about 6 a.m. I hit snooze and pretended that I heard nothing. A half hour later I heard James rustling around in the kitchen and decided to attempt to get out of bed. We slowly got ready for what we both new would be a very long and hard day.

I have wanted to climb Solar Slab for a very long time and we were finally going to do it. I have read many accounts of people rapping off of the 12 pitch climb in the dark. We figured we would be able to make it in day light but packed our headlamps and called for a late exit permit just in case. Normally climbers make to the Red Rock entrance at 6 in the morning when they open the gets. The alpine start is just not in my blood and I was not able to get out of bed until about 6:30 and we didn't make to the trail head until about 9 a.m.

The approach is very easy and took us about 45 minutes. You start at the Oak Creek parking area and take the obvious trail that heads toward the canyon. It's basically flat until you drop into the wash. After you enter the wash you take the second trail that cut's right and continue to follow it up the wash. You will see the huge Solar Slab wall on your right. Follow the trail through large boulders and then head straight for the Solar Slab Gully.

The Climbs

Solar Slab Gully II 5.3 ***

Because of our late start we had a line of climbers in front of us. There were 2 groups on Johnny Vegas and 1 group on Beulah's Book and a party of 3 on the gully. The party of 3 in the gully started climbing just before we got there so we had to wait for at least an hour until we could start climbing.

Pitch 1, 5.1 150 feet

The party in front of us were climbing the crack to the right of the gully so when it was finally our turn James lead off on the same crack. After about 50 feet he started slowing down and mentioned something about how hard the climbing was for a 5.1. He would typically be running up easy ground like that. When I was up to follow we realized that the actually route followed the large off width to the left of where we climbed. We climbed a variation that was at least 5.6-5.7.

Pitch 2, 4th class 50 feet

After James belayed me up pitch 1 we had to move our belay so I continued up and around a tree onto a nice roomy belay area. Since I had to bring in all the rope I thought I would just let James continue on pitch 2 so we could hurry and pass the party of 3. The climbing continued up a 4th class gully for about 60 feet to another large belay area.

Pitch 3, 5.1 145 feet

I took over on the 3rd pitch and climbed up through some cool weathered rock. The climbing was pretty easy and featured rock that had been rounded by water. This route would probably be a bad place to be in a rain storm! After about 120 feet I spotted a set of rappel chains so I headed straight for them up a steep but fun step in the gully. I found out later that it was another harder variation as the normal route took a 4th class section to the left of were I went. The little step I followed was probably about 5.5.

Pitch 4, 5.3 60 feet

The next pitch was James' lead. It was really cool as we were in a slot canyon with a steep step called the waterfall. You basically chimneyed up the rock with great flakes for hand holds. James lead us up the waterfall and onto the huge Solar Slab ledge. This is where the real fun will start!

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Solar Slab IV 5.6 *****

Solar Slab continues up after the gully for another 7 to 8 pitches. A total af 1200 feet of climbing if you combine the 4 pitches of the gully. A bunch of other routes all meet up on the huge Solar Slab ledge, including Johnny Vegas and Belughas Book. So, ahead of us we had about 4 or 5 other parties. While we were waiting for the next pitch we noticed that they all climbed the wrong pitch (another variation). We took this opportunity to rack up and climb the beautiful crack that lay a head of us.

Pitch 5, 5.6 165 feet

I lead off on an easy run out slab aiming for the splitter crack. The other parties climbed the black varnished dihedral to the right of the crack. I felt kind of bad for them cause this crack was so fun! There is little pro for the fist 50 feet or so but once you reach the crack it is well protected. It's more of a face climb than an actual crack climb as great jugs and varnished edges are everywhere. The bolts on the belay ledge were being used by another party so I made a gear anchor in a large flake and belayed James up.

While belaying James up another party passed him and reached the ledge so it became crowded. They were really cool people who spent the weekend at the rendezvous. They became a big part of a fast descent so we didn't have to rap in the dark. Instead of continuing up the crowded Solar Slab route that went straight up from the belay. I am not sure what route it was but it was much harder than ours.

Pitch 6, 5.6 60 feet

After waiting for the party ahead of us to continue up James took the lead. This was an interesting pitch following big lay back flakes. The party ahead of us (Simon and Melissa) stopped at an intermediate belay so this was a short pitch. Normally it would continue another 50 feet.

Pitch 7, 5.6 195 feet

Simon, from the party ahead of us, ended up off route on this pitch. He asked us what direction to go and we sent him up the wrong way. We couldn't see the 5.9 variation from where we were so we thought that the 5.6 was actually the 5.9. Because of this error he went way to the left around a shoulder. So I started climbing to let him know that we screwed up and to make sure he would be able to down climb back to the route. This mistake also allowed for us to pass them!

Our 7th pitch started with some 5.4 moves up some large flakes. I reached a set of chains in about 60-70 feet which is normally the end of the 6th pitch. I continued up by traversing a little to the right into an awesome 5.6 crack. It was mainly face climbing with the crack for pro. After the crack ends there is another short traverse to the right and then we climbed the short right facing corner. At the top of the corner I set up a hanging belay on a bolted anchor.

Pitch 8, 5.6 60 feet

James lead off with a short traverse to the right into a left facing corner and flake. Good lie backing technique was used to place pro in a blind crack. James did an awesome job on this lead. He climbed to a small roof and traversed right to a ledge.

Pitch 9, 5.5 140 feet

We new that we were close to the top. Two more rope stretchers up an awesome jam crack. I took the lead into some of the best climbing on the whole route. Easy 5.5 climbing with great protection up a perfect crack. About half way up the pitch I almost dislodged a big loose block on to my partner and it scared the hell out of me. So be careful if you climb this pitch and see some inviting holds on a ledge to your left. The scare didn't last long as the awesome jams continued for about 140 feet. I set an anchor with a couple of cams, a stopper and a tri-cam next to a bolt and belayed James up.

Pitch 10, 5.4 150 feet

James took off to the top climbing some easy chimney moves and following moderate cracks. The climbing was easy and quick and we made it to the top in 6 hours and 50 minutes. If we didn't have to wait for the other parties we probably could of shaved an hour or more off of our time. Well, we still have plenty of day light left.

We met up with Eric and Amy at the top and decided to leap frog are rappels. It got us to the bottom, after about 8 rappels, in less than 2 hours. We were pretty happy to not have to break out the headlamps. After packing up our gear we had a leisurely hour hike back to the car. What an amazing day!

1500 vertical feet of climbing in about 11 hours.

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