9,131 feet
Sulphide Glacier (attempt), Grade II
- Gear Used:
- ice axe
- crampons
- 60 meter glacier rope
July 09-10, 2007
9,131 feet
The Approach
After much debate Dylan and I decided to give the Sulphide Glacier route on Mt. Shuksan a try. Travis and I attempted a couple years back but turned around do to bad weather. The weekend was looking really warm so it didn't look like rain would play a part in our trip at all. The trail head was reached pretty quickly after following the Baker Lake road for about 22+- miles.
After packing up and starting the approach we could tell that the heat was going to be hell! The first 2 miles go pretty quickly as you follow an old abandoned logging road. The trail then turns up into the forest as it heads toward Shannon Ridge. For the most part the trail was pretty easy to follow until we hit the snow level at about 4500 feet. From there we had to keep our eyes open for pink ribbon tied around tree branches.
Dylan reaching the tree line on Shannon Ridge.
After about an hour and a half we made it to Shannon Ridge which opened up with amazing views of Mt. Baker and Baker Lake. Shannon Ridge was completely snow covered and it would remain that way for the rest of the trip. From the ridge you head for an obvious notch that eventually leads to the Sulphide Glacier.
Hiking above the notch.
We found a great camp at about 6100 feet that provided us with running water and Mt. Baker out our front door.
Views of Mt. Shuksan from our camp.
Mt. Baker in the distance.
Evening light on the north cascades.
The Climb
Once again the alpine start destroyed our plans. We both slept past our alarm and didn't actually get out of our bags until about 8:00. We quickly got up and prepared for the climb.
Dylan climbing the gentle slopes of the Sulphide Glacier.
Climbing up the glacier was very easy with no obvious crevasses at all. No real need to rope up but we did anyway's. The snow was soft and wet and my crampons would would pack with snow and basically become useless. We ran into a couple other climbers on their way down and they mentioned that the main gully was pretty sketchy from the heat.
Nearing our high point.
We kept climbing anyway's thinking that we could climb the South East Ridge instead as it would provide better and drier rock. Once at the base of the summit pyramid we decided to turn around fearing the descent down the gully may be to sketchy.
Descending in defeat.
Although being pretty disappointed I think it was the right choice do to our really late start. I need to find a better way to wake up in the mountains cause these stupid little wrist watch alarms are not working! On the way back to the car we were greeted by furnace strength heat. We were happy to jump into Baker Lake and cool off.