Royal Columns, 5.3-5.5
- Gear Used:
- 60 meter rope
- gear to 3 inches
- slings
April 29, 2007
The Drive
Tieton River is located east of White Pass. It can be a pretty long drive from Seattle (3+ hours) but is well worth it. I would love to live closer so I could climb those awesome cracks more often. From Seattle you just drive I-90 East over Snoqualmie Pass. Right after Ellensburg you take the I-82 exit to Yakima. Drive I-82 for about 15 min. and take the Naches exit (HWY 12). It's really no further than Frenchman Coulee. Reka and I made the drive in right under 3 hours today.
Royal Columns
I always seem to do the same climbs over and over again. I am not sure why, I think it is just a comfort thing. We originally were going to go climb at Frenchman Coulee but I decided that I want to play on those awesome cracks of the Tieton. I'm glad we did so I can slowly get the nerve back for trad climbing.
I now have Sunday's off of work. I thought this would be a good idea so I could get out into the mountains this quarter and keep my sanity. The reality is, I hate climbing on Sundays. Why? Cause everybody else and there 6 dogs are going to be there. I am so used to mid-week climbing and no crowds that I just get frustrated while I am waiting in line while the party of 8 has set up top-ropes on the climbs I plan on doing. Bitching aside, it was still a great day! Weather was perfect and the rock was awesome!
Western Front 5.3***
It has been at least a year since Reka has climbed so we started with the classic 5.3 of Washington. This climb is actually a really cool climb. It's great for beginer leads and great for warm up's. All though it would usually have a line of climbers waiting there turn for the lead we had it all to ourselves.
In the past I have always racked up to much gear for this route. It's hard for me to judge what to take. I tried to change that by racking a set of stoppers, a set of hexentrics and 4 large aliens on my harness and leaving the shoulder sling on the ground. This worked out well but once I made it to the top I realized I still only placed 4 pieces and only one of which was a cam. Tieton cracks just eat up hexentrics! Maybe next time I'll just take a set of hexentrics and a few draws.
Reka following Western Front.
Rough Boys 5.5**
Rough Boys is the crack right next to Western Front and leads to the same anchors as Western Front. I figured it was open so we might as well get on it while we can. This is another one of those easy jaming lessons of the area. Straight forward crack climbing with tons of good pro. The only thing bad about these climbs are they are so short.
These routes are not set up with chain anchors, just some bolts at the top of Western Front. To rappel you have to move over to a big ledge with lots of loose pebbels. This is the common rap anchors for the climbs in that area. Be careful not to kick loose rock on parties below.
Danny leading Rough Boys.
Double Trouble 5.5**
This is a great climb! Awesome jams with a nice corner to grab onto deep in the crack. Once you reach the wide section near the top the climbing gets much harder. Stem up the wide double cracks placing pro in the small crack in the middle. Once you get near the top do a tricky traverse to the right to reach the chains. Great climbing! I wouldn't mind repeating this climb every time I come here!
Danny leading Double Trouble.
Reka climbing Double Trouble.
The one thing that has always bothered me about Tieton River are the rattlesnakes. Everytime that I have been here we have ran into them. Not just one, but lots of em. This has kind of kept me away from the area because I am a wimp and fear those little buggers! Today was different though. We did run into one snake but he was so cold that he was not a threat. He just slowly slithered away. This gave us an opportunity to try and get a closer look. Snakes sure are beautiful! We watched him for awhile before we headed back to the car.
Our new friend!