Ultraman Wall, Panty Prow
- Gear Used:
- 2 60 meter ropes
- small stoppers
- quickdraws
March 29 2007
The Approach
We were pretty exhausted from our 12 hour day yesterday so we decided to take it easy on our last day at Red Rocks. We slept in and didn't make it to the 1st pullout until around 10. The wind was howling when we first pulled up and we were glad to not be in the canyons. After a 15 minute hike up to Ultraman Wall the wind had died and it was warm and comfortable on the rock.
The Climbs
Ultraman Wall
Scent of an Ultraman, 5.7** 110 feet
There was already a party on Ultraman so we started with Scent of an Ultraman. It started off very easy but I eventually got a little nervous of the distance between bolts. I guess this is why I prefer crack climbing. The bolts would get farther apart the harder the climbing got. I just kept telling myself that it is only 5.7! It was fun pulling on little sandstone edges and clipping bolts. 7 bolts.
James climbing on fun sandstone edges.
Almost to the belay.
This route required 2 60 meters to get down as the climb was 110 feet.
Godzilla, 5.7** 150 feet
Another party showed up and an argument between two groups about who gets to climb Utraman started so we moved a little bit away from them and gave up on climbing that route. Godzilla was mentioned in the guide book as a mixed climb. So I gabbed a small rack and climbed off towards the first bolt. I always thought that a mixed climb meant that you have gear opportunity between widely spaced bolts. I did manage to put two stoppers in the 150 feet of climbing. The bolts were at least 20 feet apart! Pretty exciting stuff. The climbing was easy but got your heart pumping on those run outs. 7 bolts in 150 feet!
James climbing Godzilla.
Nearing the top of Godzilla
Panty Prow
Panty Prow, 5.6*** 75 feet
We hiked up to the end of Ultraman Wall and found are way down to Panty Prow. I have climbed here before, a long time ago. James lead up on the cool arete up to the anchors. I followed and clipped a directional for some top-ropes on harder routes. Clip 5 homemade bolts to an anchor.
James leading Panty Prow.
James leading Panty Prow.
We played around on Panty Mime, 5.10c*** and Victoria's Secret, 5.10d** for awhile. James made it up the 10d until right below the top where he would move over to the 10c. I couldn't do either of em! O-well. My fingers were so raw I could hardly feel them.
I had an awesome week off of school and work. I haven't seen my wife for about 2 weeks so am very excited to get home. We are moving to Budapest in September so I have been treating this trip like it is my last and now am very nervous that I might not be able to climb in Red Rocks for a long time. Hopefully we will be able to squeeze another trip here. I guess we will just have to wait and see.
James was a great climbing partner! It was awesome to climb with him again and I hope he will be able to make a trip or to up to the north west. I have permits for the upper Enchantments for Aug 6-8 and hopefully he will be able to come up for that and climb the South Face of Prusik Peak with me. Thanx again James, I had a great trip!