Frenchman Coulee, 5.5-5.10a
- Gear Used:
- 60 meter rope
- quickdraws
March 3, 2008
The Drive
It's about a 3 hour drive to Frenchman Coulee from Seattle. Spring can be a difficult time for cragging in the North West. It was raining in Seattle and a complete blizzard while driving over Snoqualmie Pass. It never fails though, the sun was shinning at the Coulee!
The Feathers
We started off with The Feathers with hopes of moving over to the Sunshine Wall later in the day. We ended up having such a great time climbing at the Feathers we decided to just stay there. We started with the Northwest side and after warming up moved to the Southwest side.
Shake It Don't break It 5.5**
have probably climbed this route 10 times and it is pretty basic. Just follow the bolts up with great incut holds and a step ladder for your feet. 3 bolts to chain anchor.
Dylan following Shake It Don't Break It.
The Uprising 5.8***
This has always been a great climb. The blank wall in the middle of the climb adds some great moves. 4 bolts to chain anchor.
Dylan pulling the crux through the blank face.
Desert Shield 5.9***
Desert Shield climb the arrete next to the Uprising and has some really technical moves for a 5.9. I feel it is a bit harder than 5.9 but what would I know? 6 bolts to the chain anchors.
Danny leading Desert Shield.
Don Coyote 5.8***
This is a great but very pumpy climb. Stem your feet out so you don't burn out your arms to quick. 5 bolts to the chain anchors.
Danny getting pumped on Don Coyote.
So Funny I Forgot To Laugh 5.9*
This is a very awkward climb that I can never seem to get a flow with. The movements are weird and never seem to be right. It seems harder than it's 10a neighbor. 5 bolts to the chain anchor.
Dylan following So Funny i Forgot To Laugh.
Medicine Man 5.10a**
This was the first 10a a ever climbed about 8 years ago! Nice and short with great positive holds and awesome moves. 4 bolts to the chain anchors.
Dylan trying to hang on climbing Medicine Man.
Windwalker 5.10a**
Although I was pretty pumped by this time I still wanted to try and lead another 10a. This climb started out with some good holds followed by smaller crimpers. On the left hand side of the route is another pillar that sticks out a bit. The crack between the two pillars would just suck me in and I felt like I was just cheating. Even after leading it I tried to top-rope it and I still couldn't stay out of the crack. Kind of weird. 4 bolts to a chain anchor.
Dylan trying to hang on climbing Medicine Man.
Updrafts To Heaven 5.5**
We were pretty exhausted but still wanted another route in. We walked back to the northeast side and into the corner by Shin Smasher. In between two pillars is this awesome little chimney. Real easy climbing but pretty fun. clip 4 bolts to an anchor.
Dylan climbing the chimney.
We never made it to the Sunshine Wall be we had a great time and had a great workout.
-Useful guide books-
