Frenchman Coulee, 5.6-5.10a

    Gear Used:
  • 60 meter rope
  • rack to 3 1/2 inches
  • slings and quickdraws
June 3, 2008

The Drive

Normally you can get to the coulee in about 3 hours from Seattle. We took the long way as finding dry rock in Washington can sometimes be an issue. We first drove to Leavenworth thinking that we would defiantly pop out of the bad weather and into sunshine. No luck! It was dumping rain when we got there. We then decided to check out Peshastin Pinnacles to see if it was dry there. No luck! Everything was soaked. We then grabbed the 97 and headed toward the Coulee. About 5 hours after leaving Seattle we made it to the Coulee and dry rock!

Zig Zag Wall

I forgot my camera so I don't have any good pictures. We climbed some pretty cool routes. This was my first time climbing at the Zig Zag Wall, the routes don't have the best quality rock but that just added to the excitement of the climbs.

Edge of Mistakes 5.6*

This is a short and fun route that climbs up to the main ledge system that is half way up the wall. You climb a crack system placing small gear and move left onto the face about two-thirds up clipping two bolts.

Orangekist 5.8**

Short and fun climb that ends under a large overhang. Clip 4 bolts on steep edgy climbing to chain anchors.

The Jagged Edge 5.7**

Fun climb following big holds and ledges up a prominent pillar. Six bolts to chain anchor.

Jeff's Crack 5.8

Fun trad climb that the book give no stars. I think it should get a couple as it was really fun. Easy to place gear and I didn't have any issues with loose rock until the traverse left to reach the anchors on Secret Passage. Rack to 3 inches.

Secret Passage 5.10B** (top-rope)

After traversing to these anchors climbing Jeff's Crack we top roped this confusing one. We climbed on the left side when it seems that there is no where to go.

Little Book of Lies 5.8* ?

Not sure if this is the correct route or not. We climbed the route to the right of Group Therapy. It's a stem climb with very small cracks. I was only able to place stoppers and my smallest alien. Still fun climbing though. I set the anchor on the top of Group Therapy so we could top rope it.

Group Therapy 5.10B** (top-rope)

Really fun climb! can't wait to come back and lead it! Tricky crux sequence at the start of the route followed by typical Frenchman Coulee pillar climbing to the anchors.

-Useful guide books-

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