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Storm Mountain Island/Beachball Crag

The Approach

Before driving to Wyoming for my climb of Gannett Peak I drove to Utah to see friends and family. Seattle to Salt Lake City is a good 12 hour drive through some of the blandest scenery I have seen. It is nothing but sage brush and dirt for most of the route. Once in Salt Lake City you have about a 20 minute drive to get to some world class climbing!

The Climbs

I met up with my friend Angela at the park and ride at the entrance of the canyon. I was initially hoping to climb a one of the many multi-pitch routes in the area but after some discussion we decided to keep it simple and do some single pitch routes. Our first stop was at the Storm Mountain Picnic Area about 3 miles up the canyon. We initially parked in the lot before the gate thinking there was a charge regardless of your car's location. The gate attendant informed us that due to a death from someone trying to cross the river a year ago they can no longer charge climbers to walk into the picnic area. So we pulled the across the street and walked in for free!

Six Appeal 5.6**

Six Appeal sounded like a good route to warm up on and get familiar with the rock of the Wasatch. It's an easy sport climb that cruises the slippery polished slab to chain anchors. The climbing was for the most part uninteresting. It was fun but nothing spectacular. Follow about 6 bolts to the anchors at top.

Goodro's Wall 5.10c*** (top rope)

While climbing Six Appeal I couldn't stop staring at this slightly overhanging crack that climbs the slippery pillar leaning against Storm Mountain. I set up a top-rope on it thinking that if i'm lucky I might be able to make it to the top. I surprised myself as I was able to jam the whole route without a hang. The rock is completely superb! Very strenuous climbing from the start in a shallow corner with a great finger crack. Awkward moves out of the finger crack and onto the main face crack with a heal hook than cruise up the amazing hand crack. Awesome climbing!

The heat was starting to destroy me so we moved to the Beachball Crag as it is in the shade and right next to the river. The book made it feel like we would have a few options on route choices. All though it is much cooler the river was way to high and we could not get to the majority of the routes.

Red Argyle 5.5*

This was a pretty weird route that is really to short to enjoy. The area was great as it is all shady and the river is right under you but that's the only real appeal. The climb starts up a small crack for about 15 feet before you pull onto a ledge. Traverse the ledge and pull the overhang on the left.

-Useful guide books-

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