The Approach

This spectacular climb has a bitch of an approach. Givler's dome is high on the mountain side up the Icicle Creek Canyon. You can expect about 45 minutes to reach the base (if you don't get lost!). There are a series of trails that lead from Alphabet Rock headed toward Givler's dome, be careful which trail you choose cause some of them lead into difficult terrain. The main problem is when you feel like you are right under the dome there is a very sharp right hand fork. On my first trip up here we did not see this fork and we went left climbing over slabs and rocks, this is not the way to go! If you turn right here and hike up the gully you should end up on the right side of the dome and the trail will follow a ledge system to the base of the route.

The Climb

Dylan and I wanted to work on some multi-pitch crack climbing, givlers crack seemed like the obvious choice. We quickly hike up the familiar trail and made it to the base with not a single party in sight. It seems odd to be at such a popular climb with such great weather and not have to take a number. I have somehow been lucky all 3 times on this route now. I guess I can thank my boss for giving me weekdays off.

Pitch 1, 5.8

The first 10 feet of this climb has always seemed like the crux to me. The crack seems kind of off-width and hard to jam. You quickly pull yourself up and on to easier ground. After you reach a ledge you traverse a little bit to the left and onto the open slab. You have a crack to the right and a crack to the left. I have always gone left. I wonder what the right crack is like? Both cracks lead to the huge flake and where we made our first belay.

Dylan had a little bit of trouble getting past the off-width section but climbed the thin crack with face moves much easier.

Dylan climbing the thin cracks on pitch 1.

Pitch 2, 5.7

This is the money pitch, the reason we come to Leavenworth, the reason we climb! The second pitch is a perfect crack that strikes through the middle of this polished slab. It is a beautiful piece of work. Consistent jams the whole way. I made a belay where the slab starts to mellow out so I could get some pictures of Dylan and have better communication.

Once again Dylan struggled a little bit on the crack climbing. He's getting used to it and seems better every time we climb together. Good enough for The North Ridge of Mt. Stuart? He might have to hang a little bit but he'll make it up the monster!

Dylan jamming his way up the perfect crack.

locking the fingers.

Pitch 3, 5.0

This pitch was very easy and will make you wonder why you bothered to break up the route. You just keep following the crack to the top of the dome but the angle eases so much that you can almost climb without hands. Once at the top you can belay form a large bolder or from the crack a little below the top. I chose the crack and it worked out well.

...and on the final short and easy bit to the top.

We still had time and energy for some more climbing after we hiked down and decided to try some of the routes at Alphabet Rock.

Dogleg Crack, 5.8+***

gear to 2"

Dogleg Crack is a pretty striking feature arching through the rock and easily viewable from the road (it's right next to it!). I found it to be pretty strenuous and great practice. The crack is a little small for my hands in most spots and your feet are struggling to smear on the steep granite. Near the top was an awkward move to get into a different crack to the left. Great climbing!

Me leading dogleg crack.

Hind Quarters, 5.10-**

6 bolts

The bolted line next to dogleg has some great climbing! It features a lot of flakes and a cruxy bulge to pull over. Really fun climbing and worth doing again. Dylan couldn't make it up dogleg but did manage to make it up this climb. It's interesting how people differ in climbing abilities.

This ended up being a great day with some great sunny but cool weather! Thanks Dylan for being a great belay gun!

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