The Climb

Once again my plans to climb the Off Duty area failed as I am easily distracted by just about anything that encompasses rock. I basically look in the book and check to see what is climbable on the approach to the main destination. In this case it was the Keen Acres area.

Animal Farm, 5.8*

gear to 3 inches

Directly below the Keen Acres slab is a crag with two routes. Animal Farm starts with a bad corner off-width that is actually really strenuous. It's low angle but for some reason it is just horribly awkward. After you are able to tackle this big crack you climb up and left and into an awesome flake. Continue to the top and belay off of two bolts.

Abe reaching the cool flake near the top of the route.

Slightly Hep, 5.10-*

gear to 1 inch - 6 bolts

On the slab to the left of Animal Farm is a slab that starts in a crack and then follows bolts to the top. It doesn't look very hard from the bottom of the crag but looks ended up being deceiving. You can place a small cam or two in the crack but it quickly fades into pure slab climbing with kind of scary run outs! While climbing to the second bolt Abe had issues with letting the rope run freely while I was clipping. This caused a quicker than usual pump out and some mass hysteria for me. After the situation was corrected I proceeded to take three leader falls going for the third bolt. I eventually was able to pressure through the slab and quickly climbed to the top. A little disappointed but eager for more!

Abe climbing the crack before the slab.

From the top of Slightly Hep is the base of the Keen Acres slab. It is a pretty cool feature littered with cracks. We basically started from the right side and moved to the left side.

Inverted Firkin, 5.8+*

5 bolts

Get ready for slab! This climb starts off with a few crimpy moves past the first bolt and than eases. The climb might seem a little bit run out for some but don't fear as you can place small gear in horizontal cracks to supplement the bolts. After leading it and placing gear myself I don't think that it is necessary. But that's just a matter of opinion.

Abe crimping up the slab.

Keen Acres, 5.9+**

gear to 2 inches - 5 bolts

This is a great route starting in the middle of the slab. There was a section on the lower half of the route that had a bolt if you went straight up the face or you could follow the cracks that went to the left. I followed the cracks and felt that it was to easy. Maybe the bolt protected part would have been more interesting? It ended up being a fun route with pretty interesting and scary moves! kept the heart pumping!

On the rappel I had to rap off of the left side of the slab so my 60 meter could reach.

Abe top roping Keen Acres.

Kilt Twister, 5.8*

gear to 2 inches - 3 bolts

This was another really fun climb. Pull up over the short bulge off the ground with great holds and cruise the rest clipping bolts and placing gear. Stays to the left side of the slab.

Abe climbing Kilt Twister.

-Useful guide books-

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