Diedre, 5.8***
- Gear Used:
- 60 meter rope
- gear to 3 inches
- slings
September 3, 2008
The Drive
There is not much that can beat a trip to Squamish! From Seattle it's a little over 3 hours if you drive straight through. I tend to take detours through Vancouver to do a little eating and drinking. This usually requires a long weekend. From Vancouver it's about a 45 minute drive with the construction going on for the 2010 Olympics. They are currently widening the Sea to Sky HWY. I can't really decide if I think that is a good thing or not.
Diedre, 7 pitches
Pitch 1, 5.6
Although really easy the first two pitches seem to be the crux for me. Maybe it is more of a psychological crux than anything. On the first pitch you just pad up a slab for maybe 30 feet but there is no protection until you are at the belay. It's easy but can be a little bit scary for the unprepared. I set up a belay from a slung birch tree and belayed Lacey up.
Pitch 2, 5.7
The second pitch is more featured and has an open grove that you can easily climb and place good pro in. It starts off with a short traverse with a sketchy step down into the groove. Once past that point is eases as you climb to a slabby alcove and a good belay stance.
I injured my finger on this pitch trying to stay on the slab by crimping with all of my body weight. It still hurts over a month later!
Lacey climbing the slab right before the traverse to the groove.
Me climbing higher on the same pitch.
Pitch 3, 5.6
Step up steeply from the belay and traverse left to the base of the awesome dihedral. This is an easy pitch but once again there is no protection until you get to the belay!
Lacey climbing the traverse above the Sea to Sky Hwy.
Pitch 4, 5.8
Here is the start of the good stuff! From here you are looking up at 4 more pitches of amazing dihedral layback climbing! It is nothing short of a pure blast! About half way up this pitch there is a bulge to over come. This is probably considered the crux of the whole climb. It is pretty easy to overcome as long as you can get into the right position to lift your feet up and over and transfer your hands into a different crack. It is fun and exhilarating climbing! The belay bolts tend to come to quickly on this pitch.
Lacey pulling over the bulge.
Pitch 5, 5.8
This pitch is basically just a continuation of the last pitch. More awesome laybacking up the dihedral. It tends to be stiff and sustained and a bit longer than the last pitch. After about 150 feet you reach a roof that has a set of big bolts out to the right of it. You have to deviate from the dihedral a little bit to get to the bolts but it is easy and comes at the perfect time.
Lacey climbing higher on the 5th pitch.
Pitch 6, 5.6
Climb back into the dihedral as it opens up a bit and becomes easier.
Me climbing out of the belay and back into the dihedral.
Lacey on the easier slabby section of the 6th pitch.
Pitch 7, 5.8
The last pitch of this amazing climb eases significantly as the angle softens but the crack system deteriorates. Gear is small and a bit harder to find but the climbing is easy. Right before Broadway Ledge a couple of steep 5.8 moves brings you into the trees and the top of the climb.
Me climbing towards broadway ledge.
Lacey pulling the last 5.8 move onto the broadway ledge.
This climb was just as amazing as I remembered it from years ago! We traversed broadway ledge until we reached the forest and found the trail back down to the parking lot. You can also down climb far side of the slab until it meets up with the forest trail down further. Lacey did awesome as this was her first climb with more than 3 pitches involved, 2 which were sustained 5.8 climbing!
-Useful guide books-
