Royal Columns

    Gear Used:
  • 60 meter rope
  • rack to 4 inches
  • slings and quickdraws
September 23, 2008

The Drive

It's a pretty long drive to get to the Tieton but defiantly worth it! I imagine the quickest way from Seattle is to go over I-90 to Ellensburg. Take the Yakima Exit to get onto I-82. Drive 82 for about 32 miles to the US-12/Naches exit. After about 17 miles turn left on US-12. Royal columns is right across the street from the Oak Creek Wildlife Area. A Vehicle Use Permit AKA Access Stewardship Decal may be required at all parking areas.

Royal Columns

From the parking lot it is a quick and easy hike to get to the rock. Cross the bridge and climb through the wildlife gate and follow the river for a bit. You will see a trail fork off to the left and head toward the cliffs. Follow that trail for about 10 minutes. Watch out for SNAKES!!!!!

Western Front, 5.3***

gear to 2 inches

This was one of Derek's only times climbing outside so we started with the best easy climb in the area. I have always enjoyed climbing this route. I climbed with a set of Metolius Hexintrics only. It was weird climbing with such a light rack but a cool experience to have no other choice but passive pro. The Tieton tends to eat up hexintrics!

I belayed Derek up to the ledge and taught him how to set anchors and rappel.

Tieton River
Derek on Western Front. The best 5.3 in the Tieton.

Slacker, 5.4**

gear to 3 inches

A fun route with great jams. Climb the crack to a roof and jam perfect fists up and over. Fun moderate climb! Fixed anchors at top of pillar.

Tieton River
Derek jamming up past the small roof.

Good Timer, 5.4**

gear to 2 inches

Another great moderate climb. Jam your way up and use the anchors at the top of Slacker to your right.

Tieton River
Derek climbing Good Timer.

The Arete-Acal, 5.10a*

7 bolts

This is a fun sport route climbing up a slabby pillar. One of the few pillars that is not completely vertical. The climbing seemed thin and cruxy almost the whole way up. I did have to hang once which was a little disappointing. Fun route though.

Tieton River
Derek trying to smear up The Arete-Acal.

Mush Maker, 5.7***

gear to 3 inches

If there is one thing that I noticed on this trip to Tieton is if the book calls for 2.5 inches, take at least one larger piece. This route was awesome but I defiantly could have used a #3 cam and possibly a #3.5 if I wanted to really sew it up! The book calls for gear to 2.5 inches! Great consistent jams the whole way up!

Tieton River
Derek in hands to fist heaven!

First Blood, 5.8***

gear to 4 inches

I took a #4BD cam up this one cause I didn't believe the book. I am glad I did as I ended up walking the cam the first 20 feet! This is a huge crack! The book says great fist jams, I think I may have gotten a couple of good fist jams but they were near the top. Hard and strenuous for me and real scary! I personally wouldn't recommend it to anyone.

We had perfect climbing weather all day. Nice and cool and never broke a sweat! Fall is in the air!

-Useful guide books-

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