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Catapult 5.8** - Damnation Crack 5.9**

The Drive

The Climb

Lacey and I tried this climb back in June and by the time I made it to the top of the first pitch I sweating bullets! It was so hot and the upper walls were so intimidating that I chickened out at turned around. I have had this climb on my mind ever since and for good reason. I dragged Mark with me to explore the lower tier of this awesome rock!

The Fault, 5.6*

Since I have already climbed The Fault I was more than willing to let Mark take the lead. Besides, I really wanted the Catapult pitch! It look's ridiculously intimidating form the top of The Fault.

Mark jumped on lead and cruised the chimney with ease. He is skinny as hell and had no issues wedging himself into the wide chasm. I have read from other trip reports that gear is nonexistent on this pitch but I would have to disagree. The gear is there you just have to pay attention. Mark belayed me up to the tree anchor and we quickly did the gear swap so I could continue.

Catapult, 5.8**

From the tree belay you continue climbing up what seems to be a continuation of the actual fault. It's like a ramp system until you are directly underneath a steep wall with a layback crack going up it. This crack is amazing! After pulling the steep and almost overhanging bulge you continue up cracks until you climb to a ledge on your right. To your left is another jagged crack cruising up about 20 feet to another large ledge (stoners ledge?).

I belayed Mark up to the ledge and he took the next pitch to the top of the bottom tier and onto loggers ledge.

Pitch 3, 5.6

Mark lead the third pitch which cruised up moderate terrain to loggers ledge. We didn't know which way to go at first but decided on directly up. It was easy with a mix of jams, face hold and moss. Mark and I were both impressed with the varied terrain on this route.

Damnation Crack, 5.9**

The original plan was to climb Midway to the top of Castle to make it a six pitch climb. Upon my arrival to loggers ledge I ended up getting distracted by the dark depths of Damnation Crack. I have tried this climb twice in the past and have only made it about 10 feet off the ground! I was feeling good today and thought I would give it a shot!

I started off by laybacking up the initial crack, working my feet by stemming. The climbing was always strenuous and the crack quickly got to large for my hands. Eventually I made it to the chimney section where upon first sight I couldn't imagine climbing it. I couldn't see any gear placements and the wall's tapered away from each other. It looked really tricky at first but once I committed to it and got comfortable in those awkward back against the wall positions the climbing became more secure. I ended up finding all sorts of small stopper placements which eased the original fear of falling on a ledge. The chimney eventually squeezed back to a crack and the climbing eased to the top.

WOW! What a great route! It was awesome to be able to finally get up that monster. The views from the top of Jello Tower have never been so rewarding!

Mark made it to the top pretty beat and we were both ready to head down and back to Seattle. We rapped off of the tower, packed up and started down the trail.

-Useful guide books-

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