The Drive

After the typical drive to Leavenworth and up Icicle Creek Canyon you continue past the Bridge Creek Campground to a top-rope and bouldering rock called Underwear Rock. I had no idea what Underwear Rock was or where it was. We drove up and down the road trying to figure out where it was located. We eventually pulled over in the obvious pullout that was in between the campground and 4th of July Creek. This ended up being the exact spot that we were supposed to be.

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The hike up to Condor Buttress is typically about an hour in a half. Right after passing Underwear Rock you follow a trail that leads left and onward to Bathtub Dome which looks like great climbing as well. We could not find the appropriate trail and ended up bushwhacking straight up to the crag. It was difficult and a pain in the ass but we made it to the base of Condor Buttress in about 1 hour and 10 minutes! This was a big plus in the day because weather was pretty sketchy.

The Climb

Condorphamine Addiction is an awesome route! The climb is set up to be 7 pitches long with 2 of the pitches being 5.10b, all of the pitches are bolt protected. We brought 2 60 meter half-ropes so we could easily link pitches and do double rope rappels back down the route. This worked out really well as we had minimal rope drag on the way up and a quick descent.

Pitch 1, 5.9 ~170 feet

I linked the first 2 pitches which started with an easy slab straight up to a set of chains. It's about 80 feet of climbing until you reach a 3 bolt anchor. I continued past the anchor and took an exciting rightward traverse to an arete. This was the 5.9 section which had some fun moves moving from one side of the arete to the other. Eventually reaching a short hand crack to another set of chains. About 90 feet from the first set of chains. It was a cloudy and cold day and I had to spend time warming my hands as I climbed.

Mark had his coat wrapped around his waist and quickly figured out how annoying that can be while trying to clip quickdraws to your harness. He then thought it would be a good idea to tie it around his shoulders which ended up looking like he was wearing an insulated cape! I called him Batman for the rest of the day B-).

Batman following the arete high on our first pitch.

Pitch 2, 5.8 ~160 feet

Batman linked the next 2 pitches which started off with about 60 feet of easy 5.4 climbing. He cruised up past a 3 bolt anchor and to where the route quickly steepens again. The climbing was fun with lots of interesting features and small ledges. Batman set an anchor and belayed me up to the base of the first crux pitch!

Batman climbing high on our 2nd pitch (4th pitch).

Pitch 3, 5.10b ~90 feet

I took the first crux pitch and it was awesome! It starts off with steep but well featured climbing on an arete. It soon leads into a very smooth slab that takes some stemming and weight shifting moves to get past. Once you slither through the water slide the rock steepens again and provides you with jugs to pull up onto a small ledge and another 3 bolt anchor. I stopped here and belayed Batman up.

Following the great crux!

Pitch 4, 5.10b ~150 feet

Batman linked the next 2 pitches to the top which started with the 2nd crux. Good job to Batman for leading this as I feel it was the harder and more sustained of the 2 crux pitches. Hard slab climbing with delicate moves and on a blank face. The climbing was exhilarating as we were nearly 600 feet off the ground! Batman made it to the anchors but decided to continue on to the top of Condor Buttress. The last part of the route was easy, maybe about 5.4.

Mark leading the second crux pitch.

Batman wondering where his bat signal is.

With 2 60 meter ropes we were able to get down with 3 rappels. This worked out great for us as it started pouring rain on our second rappel. The hike back to the road was in the dark and rain but at least we were able to follow a trail this time!

My thoughts on the route: It was a blast!

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