Sunshine Wall

Abe and I headed straight for the sunshine wall to enjoy this beautiful day! The sun was shinning and it was defiantly t-shirt weather! We hiked down to the King Pins area to climb some of the Coulee classic moderates.

Justified Ancients of Mu Mu 5.8**

10 bolts

This route is set up as two pitches but I have always just done it as one. Clip bolts up the first pillar on steep rock but with lots of in cut holds. Use a long sling at the first anchor and continue up the harder up section to a bolts anchor. Pretty fun climbing and a good warm up for the area.

Abe top-roping Justified Ancients of Mu Mu.

I had a pretty bad start to the day as I slipped going for the second bolt! My feet slipped but I had a huge hand hold and was able to hold on with out actually falling. My lower body did a pendulum across the rock and I gouged my leg on the rock and scraped my arm pretty bad. Not a good start for such a great day.

From the anchors I top roped the lower section of Split Beaver, 5.9 and then climbed Corner Pocket, 5.10b to the anchors on Justified Ancients of Mu Mu. Both were really fun routes and Corner Pocket would probably be amazing to be able to climb it from bottom to top. Maybe next year?

Throbbing Gristle 5.9***

13 bolts

I think it has been a couple of years since I have climbed this one. Fun pumpy climbing follows 13 bolts all on the right hand side. It felt pretty strenuous all the way to the top but the holds tend to be there when ever you need them. Fun route!

Abe top roping Throbbing Gristle.

Crossing the Threshold 5.8***

Gear to 3.5 inches

We scrambled up to the ledge system that holds some of the best moderate climbs including this great trad lead! I have always enjoyed this route. It's similar to Twin Cracks but not as long or solid. Great stemming and easy gear placement the whole way up. We finished on the Clip'em or Skip'em anchors to the left.

Abe top roping Crossing the Threshold.

Clip'em or Skip'em 5.8***

10 bolts

Another good sport climb with the crux at the top. Fun pumpy climbing with good holds all the way up.

Abe leading Clip'em or Skip'em.

Air Guitar 5.10a***

Gear to 4 inches

What a great route! This climb starts in a shallow corner with a finger crack that steadily gets larger as you climb higher, ending in a bit offwidth. Stemming and face holds on either side of the opposing pillars make is seam manageable. Great climb with some awesome jamming!

Abe pumping out on Air Guitar.

I was pretty excited to have climbed a 5.10a trad! I have lead this route before but it was probably about 5 years ago. I have been working pretty hard to get at this level of trad climbing and am pretty content with the progress I have made this summer. Now if I can only keep my strength through the winter?!

-Useful guide books-

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