On Eagles Wings, 5.10a
- Gear Used:
- 60 meter rope
- gear to 2 inches
- Quickdraws
March 11, 2009
The Drive
Mt. Erie is one of the few crags in Washington that is easily accessible from Seattle. By easily accessible I mean less than 3 hours to reach. It usually takes us about an hour and 20 minutes to get there from my front door. After driving I-5 North for about an hour take SR 20 West for about 15 minutes. Take a left at a stop light (still SR 20) and drive towards Deception Pass. Take a right at Campbell Lake Road and another right at the Mount Erie Grocery which leaves you on Heart Lake Road. There is a small pull off shortly after the store for the Snag Buttress trail otherwise continue another mile for the state road to the top of Mt. Erie and access to the Powerline Wall and the Summit Wall.
From the parking lot you hike up the trail. You quickly find a fork with a sign that warns you that the trail is closed. Ignore it and take the right hand trail for a bit until you see another trail cut up the slope on your left. Follow it until you are at the base of Snag Buttress.
On Eagles Wings 3 pitches
Pitch 1, 5.6
Mark lead the first pitch up the corner system to a two bolt anchor with chains. I have lead this pitch so many times I had no problem giving him the lead. It's a fun pitch with good stemming and good holds, cracks and features all over the place.
Mark leading the first pitch.
Pitch 2, 5.10a
Every time that I have climbed Zig Zag I have eyed the roofs above and thought they would offer great climbing with intense exposure! Today was the day to test those menacing overhangs!
I started by following the ramp of Zig Zag for about 15 feet before traversing toward the passage through the overhangs. Once into the roof the climbing immediately became difficult and steep! The bolts seemed to be placed in all the wrong places. I climbed through the first roof with not to much problem. The moves remained hard and I was already pumped! I clipped a quickdraw in the last bolt over the roof and started trying to pull the rope up to clip. The rope drag was intense and added what felt like an extra 20 lbs to the rope! I could feel my left hand slipping from the hold while my right hand was struggling to pull the clip! I knew I was not going to be able to hold on any longer so I yelled "Falling!" as loud as I could and just let go! After about a 20 foot free fall the rope caught and swung me into the rock! I was a little shook up and asked to be lowered back to the belay.
I pulled some of the gear lower down to minimize rope drag to try again. By the time I got back down to the belay I was still to shaken up to try again. I graciously handed the sharp end of the rope to Mark.
Mark took off and quickly made it to the overhangs. He was moving slow and delicately through the steep roofs. He slung the rope through the quickdraw which marked my high point and delicately (by pulling on the quickdraw;-) stuck the moves and pulled up and over the last of the roofs! He continued across a very exposed traverse above the roof until he reached the a tree to sling and belay me up.
Mark pulling over the roof.
I followed the pitch and was very humbled by Marks lead! It was hard and I was already exhausted! The traverse above the overhangs was scary for the leader and the follower!
Mark leading the airy traverse after pulling over the roofs.
Pitch 3, 5.10a
I again attempted to lead this pitch but turned around. My nerves were just to fried! I have even lead this pitch before but I was just to nervous! Mark took the rope and climbed the short pitch to the top. It's really fun crimpy climbing on sharp rock! My finger tips were fried by the time I made it to the top.
Mark climbing the third pitch.
We did a total of 3 rappels to get back to the ground. Tie knots at the end of your rope! The first rap was a full 30 meters to a station down and climbers left. The second rap was down to the first belay. The third rap went to the ground.
I guess I shouldn't just try and jump into the climbing season thinking I can pick up where I left off! Even though I spent most of the winter in the gym and felt strong the realities of climbing hard outside is completely different then pulling plastic!
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