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Castle Rock - Alphabet Rock

The Drive

The original plan was to climb the North Ridge of Mt. Stuart. Mark and I drove over Snoqualmie Pass and up the Teanaway River Road toward the Ingalls Way trailhead. I just got off of work and we didn't make it to the trailhead until around midnight. We were going to start the hike that night and see if we could get to the summit by tomorrow night. The drive wasn't to promising as thunder and lightning storms were hitting the cascades. By the time we made it to the trailhead we decided it would be better to crash in the car and wait to see what weather does.

We woke up early hoping for clear skies but to our dismay, the clouds were dark and ominous. We decided that we would still try but we would change our plans from a bivy on the ridge or summit to a camp at Ingalls Lake so we have protection from the bad weather. We had no interest of being on that ridge in a storm! We were thinking that we could just hang out at Ingalls Lake and watch the weather and climb the ridge the next day if it clears.

We quickly hiked up to Ingalls Pass hoping that the other side would be beautiful blue skies! We reached the ridge line and immediately had to throw on our shell's to protect us from the cold wind. It was dark , cloudy and windy and neither Mt. Stuart nor Ingalls Peak were visible. We huddled on the ridge trying to decided what to do. After about 30 minutes of battling the wind we decided to head back to the car and go climbing in Leavenworth. I was bummed to bail on Mt. Stuart again but I would rather climb than hang out in a storm all day!

The Climbs

We quickly hiked back to the car and drove to Leavenworth. We thought we would start off with climbing the full castle. I've climbed the lower castle and the upper castle but I have never linked it all together. It ended up being a great moderate multi-pitch route up an awesome rock!

Lower Castle

Pitch 1, 5.6

The first pitch up the Lower Castle is up an awkward chimney called The Fault. The climbing is pretty easy with decent pro but it can be a challenge with a backpack. I lead this first pitch since last time Mark and I were here he lead it. I tried to stay out of the chimney as much as possible but at times I seemed to just get sucked right back in! I set a belay at a small tree with slings and belayed Mark up.

Pitch 2, 5.8

I handed the sharp end over to Mark and let him lead this amazing pitch! This is the Catapult pitch which follow some amazing features up the steep and intimidating face of the lower castle! It starts with easy cracks up to a steep corner system. The corner is a blast and has great jams and good stems. Once you reach Stoner's Ledge you climb a short face with a fractured corner. Great climbing!

Pitch 3, 5.5

I took the lead on the next pitch which is fun and easy! You just kind of cruise up cracks, blocks and jugs. Eventually reaching loggers ledge.

Upper Castle

Pitch 4, 5.5

Mark took the lead off of Loger's Ledge and into the Midway Chimney on Jello Tower. The wind was blowing pretty hard but the chimney seemed to be the perfect place to get out of it! He cruised up the polished chimney and belayed up from the top.

Pitch 5, 5.5

Mark was tired of the wind and wanted to hike back to the car. I convinced him that we should continue on and we could make it to the top in one more pitch. I honestly had no clue if I could as I have alway's done it in two pitches after Jello Tower. I did the step across move off of Jello Tower and onto the face. Traversed right into the main weakness on the face. On previous visits to Castle I have always climbed the Midway Direct route. I wanted to try the original route up the chimney. It ended up being really fun and easy but had a cool squeeze slot that I had to climb through. My body barely fit through it but I managed to squeeze through! After the slot I followed the gully until you hit a steep section which I pulled through and continued linking various cracks. I made it to the top with a few feet of rope to spare!

We hiked back to the car pretty satisfied with our day!

Alphabet Rock

The next day we headed to Alphabet rock with my goal for the day to lead Meat Grinder, 5.10a. It was a ridiculously hot day so we started early hoping to avoid burning sun.

Dogleg Crack, 5.8+

We started off with this great arching crack. I had problems with this climb last year so was happy to easily cruise it this time! Great climbing and good thin jams!

Hind Quarters, 5.10-

This is the sport climb next to Dogleg Crack. It has some great flakes with a cruxy bulge to overcome. Neither of us could figure out the crux move for awhile until I finally just went straight up and over it.

Meat Grinder, 5.10a

I racked up and taped my hands for this one. Meat grinder is a great fist crack with crux about mid height. I jammed my way up the great crack and made it the crux. I plugged a #3.5 in the crack and found that it was right where my fist needed to be. I struggled a bit before I decided I have to try and move it. After I moved the cam it was easy to pull through and cruise to the top!

Although we weren't able to climb the North Ridge of Mt. Stuart we still had a great weekend of climbing! The full castle and a 5.10a trad! The summer has been good to me!

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